Frequently asked 'gunsmithing related' questions
Q; What do your action jobs do, what exactly are they?
A: My action jobs are just that, action jobs. They make your revolver's action (internal mechanism) function properly, and cease to grind themselves up internally, which is a VERY large factor, especially in Colts and "clones". In the process, they will become a lot easier and smoother to cock and fire. This will also usually keep you from having problems "down the road" of an early rising bolt, that will scratch the heck out of your cylinder, and a multitude of other things (especially in the case of "clones"). And for the RECORD, these results CANNOT be achieved my merely installing a "spring kit" into your gun. An action job is a lot of precision work, changing some angles on internal parts, polishing the PROPER engagement surfaces, etc., and NOT polishing others! I've corrected some "failed" action jobs in my time, where the gun simply wouldn't operate properly after having been worked on by another gunsmith. Also, I do not like to make my actions feel like there are no springs left in it. I want the 4 "clicks" to still be there, for the action to still feel "positive", and SAFE. For the trigger pull to still be more than a HALF a pound! And for the gun to still fire the primers! And speaking of primers, as been widely discussed on the internet forums for the last 10 ~ 15 years, if you shoot cowboy action with guns that have less than stock strength mainsprings stay away from CCI primers. They are known for using harder metal in their manufacture and can cause misfires. Again, do not reload with CCI primers. Their primers are great but unless they have changed some "ingredients" they are very HARD.
Q: You mention, and I've heard of an early rising bolt. How can I tell if my revolver has that problem?
A: An early rising bolt means that your gun is out of time (except on Rugers, it's NORMAL for Rugers!). It will most likely still function and shoot OK, but it can lead to a horrendously scratched and gouged cylinder. And, it WILL keep getting worse over time and eventually the bolt may not even drop, leading to a locked up cylinder! Not to mention the fact that it contributes to the action feeling bad. Click the photos below to see an EARLY rising bolt (LEFT) and a correctly rising bolt (RIGHT) for comparison................
Q: I've heard the expression "bad hammer cam" and bad "bolt". What are these exactly?
A: That refers to the cam on the hammer of most single action Cowboy guns; Colt's, AWA's, Cimarron's, Uberti's, USFA's, Pietta's, et al. This "cam" operates the "bolt", which allows the cylinder to rotate, and then locks it from turning. If it has gone bad, it allows the bolt to rise early (early rising bolt discussed above), causing even more problems. This particular situation can also be created by a bad bolt leg, not just the hammer cam. On a Colt SAA the cam itself can be replaced, but with the clones the whole hammer nust be replaced. Click on the photo to see a perfect example of this problem just beginning on an Uberti (Cimarron) hammer, even including a little "flap" of metal that was being "peeled back" from the cam before I worked on it. I was able to save this hammer because it was caught early. The photo on the right is a typical bolt and shows the area where the damage (wear) typically occurs)..............
Q; You adjusted my Colt's barrel for windage and it shoots MUCH better than before, but the front sight is tilted to the left and looks weird, why?
A: I know, but that's just how it always seems to end up. On Colt's, clones and even Ruger Vaqueros. If the gun is shooting to point of aim, it's front sight will be tilted to the left. You will RARELY see it any other way. It's only on adjustable sighted guns that the front sight will be straight up and down and everything works (looks) "correct".
Q; What about removing trigger creep?
A: In respect to what's called "trigger creep"; Trigger creep is when you can feel the trigger moving (pulling) for a bit of a distance before it finally "breaks", and the hammer falls. You won't usually notice this with the stock, heavy mainsprings that come in Colts and their copies. You have to work so hard to just pull the trigger in the first place! But after an action job, with the lighter springs, it can become apparent. In the process of doing your action jobs, if the creep is EXCESSIVE (as it can be), I will lessen it to manageable levels. However, I will not entirely get rid of it. For two reasons. One is, I feel it tends to give a margin of safety. Please click on the photo below to see what the trigger engagement looks like and why it can be dangerous to lessen it! These guns are not benchrest competition guns. They have a VERY simple mechanism designed in the early 1800's and were never intended to be used as such. Second, all metal wears, even properly hardened metal can wear. I can't tell you how many people have sent me handguns to UNDO what other people have done to their guns. Talk about hair triggers! If you breathe heavy, the gun might fire; less than 1lb. trigger pulls! They may have been OK to begin with, but after a while they wore, and became unsafe. VERY unsafe to say the least! I assure you that under the stresses involved in Cowboy Action shooting, you will NEVER notice a little bit of trigger creep. Just ask Mike Venturino! Again, click the photo below to see what the trigger/hammer engagement looks like and why it's dangerous to lessen it................
Q; So you DO work on Italian clones, USFA's, AWA's and Colt Cowboys (ad infinitum)?
A; You bet! I've heard that a few of the 'bigger names' in this business don't like to work on Italian clones at all. I can honestly understand why. They just never seem to turn out quite as nice as a real Colt after an action job and are more work to boot. And they all seem to turn out a bit different than each other (weird!). Considering this could possibly lead to an unsatisfied customer, I can see why some might not like to work on them. But I feel, even though they typically turn out to be a LOT more work for me than a Colt, that everybody deserves a nice, slick pistola! Heck, clones can usually be pretty darn nice guns! Especially the U.S.F.A.'s guns I've seen lately, or now the new A.W.A. guns. So I welcome your business, and WILL make your Italian "Colt", Remington or conversion be the "best that it can be". The few guns I don't work on are listed below.
Q: What do you think of coil spring "conversions" in Colts and clones that I've heard about and do you do that work?
A: Coil springs (true coil springs, not "music wire") seem to work and function just fine in a Ruger Vaquero (and MANY other guns like Rossi 92's) as mainsprings. Yes, of course they work. But as to a conversion to that type of spring? I feel that it is an answer to a non-existing problem. In other words; why bother? I don't think they are more reliable. I personally have yet to see a mainspring break. I'm sure they HAVE, because ANY spring can break, but I don't think it's very common at all! The other point is they (in MY opinion) take away from the usual "authentic feel" of a Colt, or Colt type S.A.A. gun. So if you really want a coil mainspring, just buy a Vaquero! Good gun, less money, and the work is already done for you! But why buy a Colt (or "clone") and then try to copy designs from a Vaquero. That's where the Colt Cowboy ran into problems. I custom grind the mainspring for the "perfect" feel (to me anyway!) and I use Heinie wire trigger/bolt springs on all Colts and clones. For Ruger Vaqueros I use Wolff Custom Spring sets (17# main). On cap and ball pistolas, I custom grind 'em myself.
Q: I noticed the grip/triggerguard seems to have become loose on my Colt. What's going on?
A: It probably HAS become loose. It's like magic. The gripstrap and/or the trigger guard seems to ALWAYS loosen up on Colt SAA's and it's clones. It just happens. Always has, and always will I reckon. You need to buy yourself a good set of Gunsmith hollowground screwdrivers. Keep those screws snugged up. The culprits to watch for are the six screws of the backstrap and trigger guard. AND, the base-pin latch and ejector rod housing can loosen too. You wouldn't want to loose those things during a match! And for the record, I prefer occasional tightening of these screws rather than using "Locktite". In addition, many people have asked me which brand of screwdriver I recommend. Well, every one I'VE ever owned has broken after a month or two. Of course mine see some extreme usage. I currently use a set of "Bonanza" screwdrivers (red handles, blackened round shanks). But all of mine have broken the tips off at one time or another so I now grind my own screwdriver tips and heat treat them so now, they DON'T break anymore.
Q: I notice that when my Uberti (Colt, AWA, USFA, Cimarron) is on half cock a/o the "safety" notch I can still pull the trigger and the hammer will fall. Is that a problem?
A: You better believe that's a problem! That means (most likely) that the hammer notch has broken and either it needs to be welded up and recut, or you need a new hammer for the gun to be truly safe again. Click on the photo for an example of this problem (NEW Colt hammer on the left, DAMAGED hammer on the right)...........
Q; Are there any guns you don't work on?
Yes, here's the short list;
> Original ANTIQUE Colt Lightning and Thunderer revolvers. They are "break'o'matics"! Do I need to explain?! They should have never been produced in the first place! That's my opinion anyway.
> Any break-open shotgun's action work. Blah!!! Boring. Sorry.
> No rebarreling or relining (yet) of lever guns or shotguns, just S.A.A.'s.
> I no longer will work on A.S.M. (Cimarron) Schofields. No parts are available and these guns were (unfortunately) just "born" with some hefty PROBLEMS. That's why they don't make, import, or sell them any longer.
> It's a fairly short list (of course subject to change)! ;-)
Well........that's it, thanks for listening to me ramble. Any more pertient questions you think should be up here, let me know. Hope to hear from you soon!
Tom (a.k.a. Kid Yates) Sargis Jr.